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Wedding Cake: 1st Century B.C. Rome
by Charles Panati

The wedding cake was not always eaten by the bride; it was originally thrown at
her.  It developed as one of many fertility symbols integral to the marriage
ceremony.  For until modern times, children were expected to follow the
marriage as faithfully as night follows day; and almost as frequently.

Wheat, long a symbol of fertility and prosperity, was one of the earliest grains to
ceremoniously shower new brides; and unmarried young women were expected
to scramble for the grains to ensure their own betrothals, as they do today for the
bridal bouquet.

Early Romans bakers, whose confectionery skills were held in higher regard than
the talents of the city's great builders, altered the practice.  Around 100 B.C.,
they began baking the wedding wheat into small, sweet cakes-to be eaten, not
thrown.  Wedding guests, however, loath to abandon the fun of pelting the bride
with wheat confetti, often tossed the cakes.

According to the Roman poet and philosopher Lucretius, author of
De rerum
natura
("On the Nature of Things"), a compromise ritual developed in which the
wheat cakes were crumbled over the bride's head.  And as a further symbol of
fertility, the couple was required to eat a portion of the crumbs, a custom known
as
confarreatio, or "eating together."  After exhausting the supply of cakes,
guests were presented with handfuls of
confetto-"sweet meats"- a sort of
confetti-like mixture of nuts, dried fruits, and honeyed almonds, sort of an
ancient trail mix.

The practice of eating crumbs of small wedding cakes spread throughout Western
Europe.  In England, the crumbs were washed down with a special ale.  The
brew itself was referred to as
bryd ealu, or "bride's ale", which evolved into the
word "bridal".

The wedding cake rite, in which tossed food symbolized an abundance of
offspring, changed during lean times in the Middle Ages.  Raw wheat or rice once
again showered a bride.  The once-decorative cakes became simple biscuits or
scones to be eaten.  And guests were encouraged to bake their own biscuits and
bring them to the ceremony.  Leftovers were distributed among the poor.  
Ironically, it was these austere practices that with time, ingenuity, and French
contempt for all things British led to the most opulent of wedding adornments:
the multi tiered cake.

The legend is this: Throughout the British Isles, it had become customary to pile
the contributed scones, biscuits, and other baked goods atop one another into an
enormous heap.  The higher the better, for the height augured prosperity for the
couple, who exchanged kisses over the mound.  In the 1660's, during the reign of
King Charles II, a French chef (whose name, unfortunately, is lost to history)
was visiting London and observed the cake-piling ceremony.  Appalled at the
haphazard manner in which the British stacked baked goods, often to have them
tumble, he conceived the idea of transforming the mountain of bland biscuits into
an iced, multi tiered cake sensation.  British papers of the day are supposed to
have deplored the French excess, but before the close of the century, British
bakers were offering the very same magnificent creations.